Squares & Landmarks
Rahba Kedima: The Spice & Apothecary Square
The old square of the herbalists — spices, potions and apothecary curiosities.
- Opening hours
- Stalls open roughly 9:00 until dusk; café terraces later
- Entry
- Free
- Time needed
- 30–45 minutes
- Best time
- Late morning, when the spice stalls are fully stocked
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Overview
Rahba Kedima — the 'old square' — is the fragrant heart of the souks, an open marketplace given over to spices, dried herbs and the traditional apothecary trade. Cones of cumin, paprika, saffron and ras el hanout rise from the stalls, alongside dried roses, argan, henna, and the herbalists' jars of remedies and cosmetics. Ringed by rooftop cafés, it's one of the medina's most photogenic and sensory corners.
The square has been a trading place for centuries, and in the past it saw grain, wool and even a slave and carpet market. Today its business is spices and the apothecary arts: stalls piled with the spice blends of Moroccan cooking, plus the herbalists (attarine) selling everything from dried chameleons and cochineal to black soap, ghassoul clay, kohl and folk remedies for every ailment. It's touristy, certainly, but still a working market where locals shop for the kitchen and the medicine cabinet.
Around the edges, several rooftop cafés — the Café des Épices is the best known — give you a mint tea and a bird's-eye view over the whole scene, a favourite pause for photographers. At street level the stalls spill into the surrounding lanes, and the carpet and basket sellers of the Criée Berbère (the old auction hall) open off one side, so the square doubles as a gateway into the deeper souks.
It's an easy few minutes' walk north of Jemaa el-Fnaa, which makes it a natural first stop on any wander into the souks. Prices are negotiable and quality varies, so it rewards a little bargaining and a sniff-test before buying; the saffron in particular is worth scrutinising, as cheap 'saffron' is often safflower. Even if you buy nothing, it's a wonderful place to stand and take in the colour and scent of the market.
Highlights
- The medina's traditional spice and herbalist marketplace
- Pyramids of cumin, saffron, paprika, dried roses and herbs
- Apothecary stalls of traditional remedies and cosmetics
- Rooftop café terraces looking down on the square
What to see
The spice pyramids
Cones of cumin, paprika, saffron, ras el hanout and dried roses stacked across the stalls.
The herbalist stalls
Apothecary sellers offering black soap, ghassoul clay, argan, henna and folk remedies.
Café des Épices terrace
A rooftop café on the square with the classic overhead view for photos and tea.
The Criée Berbère
The old carpet-auction hall opening off the square, now full of rugs and textiles.
Getting there
- In the souks about a 5–10 minute walk north of Jemaa el-Fnaa
- Follow the main souk lane (Souk Semmarine) and bear right toward the spice stalls
- Ask for 'Rahba Kedima' or the Café des Épices, both well-known landmarks
Insider tips
- Sniff and inspect before buying — real saffron is costly and often faked
- Head up to a rooftop café for tea and the best photo angle
- Bargain gently; opening prices for tourists are high
- Buy whole spices over ground ones for freshness and honesty
- It's a good orientation point for diving deeper into the souks
Frequently asked questions
What is sold at Rahba Kedima?
It's the souks' spice and apothecary square, so the mainstays are cooking spices — cumin, paprika, saffron, ras el hanout — plus dried herbs, roses, henna, argan oil, black soap, ghassoul clay and the herbalists' traditional remedies and cosmetics. Carpets and baskets are sold in the halls opening off it.
Is the saffron at Rahba Kedima real?
Some of it is genuine, but cheap 'saffron' is frequently safflower, which looks similar but has little flavour. Real saffron is expensive, deep red, and colours water golden slowly. Buy small amounts from a reputable stall, inspect and smell it first, and be wary of prices that seem too good to be true.
How do I get to Rahba Kedima from Jemaa el-Fnaa?
It's only a 5–10 minute walk north into the souks. Follow the main covered lane and bear toward the spice stalls, or ask for the Café des Épices, which everyone knows. Because it's so close and central, it's an ideal first stop before exploring the deeper souk alleys.